The Great Burgundian Invasion of Chardonnay

Chardonnay, originally from Burgundy, is now grown in every wine region around the world, and as of lately the most planted grape in California. Representing a different version of itself everywhere its grown, the purest form is still represented from the Chablis region of Burgundy. Its huge success in California didn’t start off right from the get go, but instead sky rocketed the last 50 years.

The first documented arrival of Chardonnay is pinpointed to 1882 but it is believed that it had existed prior but confused for a different varietal. Charles Wetmore had transported budwood from Meursault and planted it in his Livermore property at this time. Being the head of the California State Viticulture Commission, Wetmore wanted to diversify plantings in California and gave cuttings to nurseries, which then were then passed on to other vineyards. Another major injection of burgundy clones into the California ecosystem was in 1896 when Paul Mason brought Chardonnay and Pinot Noir cuttings back from Burgundy and planted them at his Livermore and Santa Cruz locations. These two major instances can be credited to spreading the chardonnay varietal in California.

However, Chardonnay didn’t take off at first and instead in the 1960’s there were only around 300 acres of the grape in all of California. (Over 93,000 acres today) Then in 1976 when Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay beat out many famous White Burgundies, the worlds focus centered on California’s potential. During these formative years however, California Chardonnay was produced in a much more opulent manner then its French counterparts. Its warmer climate first off gives it a much broader body and a sense of heaviness. Higher alcohol is a major contributing factor to this. Also, the more dominant usage of oak is another characteristic of this varietal from the mid 80’s and 90’s. Progress has resulted in many wine makers trying to refocus on the Burgundian style in means of keeping it more elegant and light.

It is important to see the varying difference of the grape from each region and have an understanding of its origin. The purity and deep complexity of French Chardonnay is attributed to many different aspects. The French version tends to focus more on what the specific plot of land has to offer. It’s exposure to the elements, ancient soils that change drastically every few hundred meters, the vintage sensitive weather causing the roots to struggle for every drop it needs to flourish. This is what makes our chardonnay so unique. Our Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne by Arnaud Boue is a perfect example of this. And with only a few cases produced a year, it shows how special this grape is and its love affair with the land. But not all Chardonnay has to be this expensive. (Even though it’s at a killer price for being a biodynamic Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne) We insist on trying our Macon Peronne and Vire Clesse from Domaine Creusserome to get an affordable idea of what Burgundy has to offer. Better yet, buy both and witness yourself how the same grape from the same producer can taste so different with only a few miles spread between the two plots of land.